My last
stop was in Antigua Guatemala. This was the original capital of
Guatemala, founded in 1543. Antigua was a place of sumptuous elegance
until it was felled by a devastating earthquake in 1773. In 1776, the
capital was transferred to Guatemala City, and Antigua remained dormant
and half forgotten, with many of its churches left in a collapsed
state. While Guatemala City grew into a polluted, dangerous and
unattractive city, Antigua turned into a time capsule.
The most photographed structure in Antigua is the Arco of Santa
Catalina, a butter colored arch between two sections of a convent. The
Arco looks different throughout the day and the evening, yet it is
always a delight to the eye.
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Behind the pastel walls, a restored
residence
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The yellow-hued Iglesia
de La Merced is arguably the most attractive church of the ones which
survived the earthquake. But the ruined churches are at least as
interesting. The atmosphere of serene peace following destruction and
loss is uplifting in a deeply spiritual way. Not quite so elevated is
the presence of young couples engaged in gallant courtship behind
many a collapsed pillar. Deep under the ruins, a few excavated crypts
will add to the haunting aura of Antigua.
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The prime side trip when visiting Antigua is the ascent of the Pacaya
volcano. It is a manageable hike which starts in cloud forest. After a
while you encounter a cooled lava flow in a meadow. Then you climb on
the brittle, crumbly and sharp lava until it gets awfully hot, and you
see glowing red rocks through the cracks.
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Antigua is a great
place for shopping. You can buy beautiful textiles, spooky masks,
carvings, leather goods and many other crafts. Although the food in
Antigua is not memorable, there are several great pastry shops.
If you want to get away from the tourists, you can always go to the
market, a noisy and odorous fun place. Behind the market you will find
a fantastic display of recycled American school buses. These buses have
the reputation of being pickpoket hives, not to be patronized by
tourists.
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