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Tikal is a vast archeological complex, one of the wonders of the ancient world. The Mayas started building monuments in the Tikal area around 200 BC. The large monuments which are unique to Tikal were built between 600 AD to 800 AD. By 900 AD, Tikal was on its way to being deserted and forgotten. For an interesting explanation of the decline of Tikal, read Jared Diamond's Collapse.





Tikal consists of six huge and steep temples, a few squat pyramids, and many comparatively smaller structures. The whole complex is surrounded by jungle. When Tikal was "discovered" in 1848, the monuments were almost completely covered with dirt, mulch and vegetation. Even now, Tikal is not fully excavated. Templo III, for instance, shows only its beautiful top, peeking out of a huge unexcavated hill. Plan on staying eight hours on the site to get a good overview of Tikal.

Templo I

Templo II

Templo II seen from Acropolis del Norte

Templo III - not excavated

Acropolis Central

Steps leading to the top of partially excavated Templo IV and the famous panorama (used in the movie Star Wars)

The classic (Star Wars) Tikal view: Templos I, II. and III seen from the top of Templo IV

Tikal is an isolated site, deep in the jungle. You definitely need a water bottle, bug spray and sunscreen. You will hear howler monkeys early in the morning (they sound like distant construction, like aggressive bulldozers), and maybe see a spider monkey up close.




But visiting Tikal is not an expedition. The paths are wide and maintained like the alleys of a city park. If you want a rougher adventure, some remote and not yet excavated sites can be reached after days of walking.

The steep ladders going up Templo V

Templo IV and III from the vertiginous top of Templo V

The Gran Plaza - between Templo I and Templo II. Modern Maya shamans still conduct low-key ceremonies there early in the morning.

Moody, isolated Templo VI

The Great Pyramid at Mundo Perdido: the only large Tikal monument you get to climb onto using the original steps. An easy climb but a tricky descent.

The view from the top of the Great Pyramid, with Templo IV and a lesser pyramid in evidence.
Tikal was built with lime stone. It is believed that the temples were originally painted in sorbet colors (like most Guatemalan houses today). For a timeless structure, Tikal is actually very fragile. The inscriptions and stelae have been almost erased by the elements. Excavation is painstaking, as vegetation had almost covered the whole site. One is grateful that some fragile artifacts were purloined by the Swiss as far back as 1877 and kept in museums. Compared to Machu Picchu or to the Great Wall, Tikal feels impermanent, endangered. Official Site
One of Twin Pyramids in Complex R

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