PERÚ 7

The first hour was uneventful. The wonderful cabin crew served the passengers breakfast while the train slowly left Cuzco. The hills are too steep for turns, so the trip starts with 6 zigzags: the train goes forward a few minutes, then backwards, then forward again...

We seemed to be going ever slower, and after a while we came to a complete stop in the middle of nowhere. The police was very active, especially ahead of the train. Apparently, some protesters had obstructed the tracks with boulders.

After one hour or so, the tourists got restless. We found a smoky hut and we invaded it en masse.

After finally boarding again, we resumed our agonizingly slow trek.

Still, many windows on the left side of the train were shattered. Oddly, the train stopped again instead of speeding away from the disturbance.

Soon the beautiful hills were covered with tear gas smoke. We could see a large crowd on a ridge. It turns out that the inhabitants of several dirt-poor villages on the way were protesting some monopoly between PerúRail and Machu Picchu that left them out. We passengers started understanding the point of view of the protesters. Apparently, they had tried to make their point in a more peaceful fashion before resorting to throwing stones at us and damaging the train.

We made many stops on the way. I was busy dispensing Advil, advice, and looking out for broken glass: it was just like work!

The following day, I rushed to the newsstand to read about our adventure. It made the front page of the local paper, but the national papers were only concerned with the power outage in the United States! For a report on the incident in Spanish, click here

	Machu Picchu, Perú's #1 archeological site and one of the wonders of the world, can be reached by foot (via the fabled Inca Trail) or by train. Even on the best days, the Vistadome train takes more than 3 hours to cover 70 miles. August 14, 2003 wouldn't turn out to be the best day.
The first hour was uneventful. The wonderful cabin crew served the passengers breakfast while the train slowly left Cuzco. The hills are too steep for turns, so the trip starts with 6 zigzags: the train goes forward a few minutes, then backwards, then forward again...
	We were in the first car of the first train of the day. The windows allowed us to enjoy the landscape thoroughly. I couldn't help noticing several policemen with huge weapons in our car.
We seemed to be going ever slower, and after a while we came to a complete stop in the middle of nowhere. The police was very active, especially ahead of the train. Apparently, some protesters had obstructed the tracks with boulders.
	The obstruction must have been serious, and we were allowed out of the train. It was a pretty spot on the bank of the Río Urubamba.
After one hour or so, the tourists got restless. We found a smoky hut and we invaded it en masse.
	Inside, this imperturbable lady continued roasting her corn. She was absolutely unruffled, as if she received visits from dozens of ridiculous tourists armed with cameras every day. Imagine YOUR reaction if a busload of people on their way to Branson, Missouri barged in your house and took pictures of you preparing lasagna just because the bus had a flat tire...
After finally boarding again, we resumed our agonizingly slow trek.
	Suddenly, some men appeared in a field on the left side, and they started throwing objects. The crew and the police yelled "get down, get down!" Something rolled under a seat nearby. I worried for a second it might be a grenade, but it was just a stone. I could tell the protesters weren't shooting, because the impacts weren't very noisy.
Still, many windows on the left side of the train were shattered. Oddly, the train stopped again instead of speeding away from the disturbance.
	The police dispersed in the hills, running after the men who had thrown stones at the train.
Soon the beautiful hills were covered with tear gas smoke. We could see a large crowd on a ridge. It turns out that the inhabitants of several dirt-poor villages on the way were protesting some monopoly between PerúRail and Machu Picchu that left them out. We passengers started understanding the point of view of the protesters. Apparently, they had tried to make their point in a more peaceful fashion before resorting to throwing stones at us and damaging the train.
	For the rest of the "danger" area, we were escorted by this little toy train ahead of us. Needless to say, things were not moving any faster.
We made many stops on the way. I was busy dispensing Advil, advice, and looking out for broken glass: it was just like work!
	In the end I was impressed by the policemen I saw in action. They were mindful of our safety, but also of the safety of the protesters. The PerúRail crew was also brave, and I was sorry to find out, upon asking, that they wouldn't get any overtime pay for their long day. I hope the government listens to the claims of the villagers who deserve a cut of the action, and proper representation. It took us eight hours to get to Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu. The return train was delayed four hours, to leave us sufficient time to visit the sanctuary. On the way back, we rolled in pitch darkness, with plastic sheeting flapping where the broken windows had been. I am a lover of train travel, but when a chance came up to disembark and finish the last few miles to Cuzco by bus, I literally jumped out of that train!
The following day, I rushed to the newsstand to read about our adventure. It made the front page of the local paper, but the national papers were only concerned with the power outage in the United States! For a report on the incident in Spanish, click here

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