The Cuzco and Iquitos areas have a fine tourism infrastructure. I have heard the same glowing reports from the Titicaca and Arequipa regions for which I didn't have enough time. Throughout most of Perú, Americans and Europeans are welcomed with great kindness and understanding. 

I planned the whole trip before leaving, using the internet. If you are more adventurous or if you have a good bit of time for your vacation, you don't need to plan everything in advance. But make sure you have an escortista of some sort waiting for you at the Lima airport: midnight at the International Arrivals is by far the wildest sight in Perú.

I booked flights through INTRATOURS, a Texas travel agent with good deals for Latin trips. DELTA AIRLINES has a convenient connection from Harrisburg in Atlanta. Domestic flights within Perú were on Aerocontinente, an airline with old planes and young crews. I had read some less than favorable reports, but I have nothing but praise for Aerocontinente, which went out of business in 2004.

The HOTEL SAN ANTONIO ABAD provides excellent transfers for visitors who only want to spend one quick night in Lima.

The ROYAL INKA HOTELS in Cuzco and Pisac are situated in interesting buildings, and offer friendly and helpful service. I used their tour option and I was very pleased. They have a booking office in the US.

In Iquitos, the HOTEL VICTORIA REGIA is clean and cool, which is welcome.

The MUYUNA JUNGLE LODGE is a great place, very rustic but very well organized. I only booked the two-night stay because I was worried about being too hot, unable to sleep, or uneasy with beer guzzling, guitar strumming companions, but I was wrong, and I wish I had stayed longer. I booked the Lodge and the Victoria Hotel with the help of TURIFAX, an office in Lima that answers e-mails in minutes and offers good rates.

Of the guidebooks I leafed through, the FROMMER'S GUIDE was the best. The information is also available online on the FROMMER'S site.

You are unlikely to need to deal directly with PERURAIL, since the train ticket to Machu Picchu is part of a package with the admission to the sanctuary.

Make sure you practice your Spanish a bit before leaving. Most people do not understand English. But even if you are fluent in Spanish, ask for the English speaking guides, who seem to have more knowledge altogether.

There is a certain amount of overt and also some barely disguised begging going on. Some people in traditional costume in the Cuzco area clearly expect a tip for a photo. You also get propositioned for a shoeshine frequently. I was usually wearing sandals, but the shoeshiners weren't deterred, assuring me that sandals could be shined. I finally let a youth clean my muddy jungle sneakers, and he did a great job.  I recommend loading up on stickers and crayons for the children who will invariably come to you with friendly curiosity.

Finally, I had read a lot about thievery, so I was cautious. Nothing unpleasant happened to me. Still, I experienced increased forgetfulness in Cuzco, probably because of the altitude.