TEMPLE OF BLISS - SAINT SOPHIA CATHEDRAL

A few miles away stands imposing Saint Sophia Cathedral, which went through several changes before reaching its final shape in 1932, already the twilight of Harbin's Russian era.

For a long time after WWII, Saint Sophia was hidden, deliberately forgotten, its inside gutted. Other significant Russian churches were destroyed during the traumatic 1960s. It was as if the Chinese were worried that the Russians would come back and claim ownership of the much disputed region.

More recently it became obvious that handsome Saint Sophia is a part of Harbin's history, of great interest to visitors and tourists. It was renovated with much fanfare, as a Harbin historical museum. Today, the plaza in front of the cathedral is a popular spot with piped in music, a haven in the midst of a chaotic neighborhood.

You don't meet many non-Chinese tourists in Harbin, and the few that you do meet are most likely Russians from nearby Siberia.


	Harbin is a twentieth century city. Therefore, you will not find ancient monuments. The largest active Buddhist temple in the whole region is the Temple of Heavenly Bliss. Constructed in the 1920s, it doesn't possess the exquisite detail of the great temples of the past. The statuary has a somewhat louche carnival allure. The devotion of the faithful, however, is the real thing. The Temple of Heavenly Bliss is a very spiritual place, and you can feel a buzz in the air, along with the incense smoke. Outside the temple, in a row of little religious shops, you can buy Hell Bank play money which you then burn in order to satisfy (easily fooled) spirits.

A few miles away stands imposing Saint Sophia Cathedral, which went through several changes before reaching its final shape in 1932, already the twilight of Harbin's Russian era. For a long time after WWII, Saint Sophia was hidden, deliberately forgotten, its inside gutted. Other significant Russian churches were destroyed during the traumatic 1960s. It was as if the Chinese were worried that the Russians would come back and claim ownership of the much disputed region. More recently it became obvious that handsome Saint Sophia is a part of Harbin's history, of great interest to visitors and tourists. It was renovated with much fanfare, as a Harbin historical museum. Today, the plaza in front of the cathedral is a popular spot with piped in music, a haven in the midst of a chaotic neighborhood. You don't meet many non-Chinese tourists in Harbin, and the few that you do meet are most likely Russians from nearby Siberia.
Inside Saint Sophia Cathedral
An ice impostor on Saint Sophia's esplanade >>

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